The Hidden Beauty of the Back in Fashion
Fashion is often judged by its front, but a growing number of designers are turning their attention to what lies behind. From the 2026 collections to historical fashion trends, the back has become a canvas for creativity and innovation.
Designers Emphasize the Importance of the Back
Several spring 2026 collections have focused on the “exit impact” of garments, an aspect that has long been overlooked in fashion. Creative director Ian Griffiths of Max Mara credits the Italian firm’s head pattern cutter with instilling this idea. She once told him that if a designer only focuses on the front of a design, they should only be paid half. Griffiths, of course, always collected his full salary.
Griffiths believes that thinking about the back is essential for a well-rounded design. “Even to think just about the front and the back is still very two-dimensional,” he said. “To be a good designer, you have to really think about everything in the round.” His latest collection featured bare backs with harness-like black elastic straps, emphasizing the importance of the back as a surprising element.
A Trend Across the Industry
Other 2026 collections also showcased back interest. Schiaparelli, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, Yohji Yamamoto, Rabanne, and McQueen all included designs that highlighted the back. McQueen brought back the house’s infamous bumster pants, while Vetements based its entire spring show on looks that were normal in front but nearly naked from behind. This was inspired by a scene from Eyes Wide Shut where Nicole Kidman hiked up the back of her gown.
Carla Sozzani, president of the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation, emphasized how much the late Tunisian designer considered the 360-degree impact of his work. “When we look at these clothes, the back is almost more interesting than the front,” she said. “For him, it was super important.”
Historical Significance of the Back
Fashion historian Alexandre Samson noted that the back has been a symbol of vulnerability throughout history. “It’s the only part of your body that you cannot touch entirely,” he said. He also pointed out that the back has come into focus at various points in fashion history, such as the 18th-century sack-back dress, the bustles of the 19th century, and the backless dresses that became popular in the 1930s.
Samson credited American socialite Rita de Acosta Lydig for being the first to wear a backless evening gown at the Metropolitan Opera in the 1910s, which reportedly caused gasps from the audience. He also mentioned that French couturiers like Madeleine Vionnet documented dresses from the front, side, and back to protect their designs.
The Future of Back-Centric Design
Moschino has used the backs of clothes as a “whiteboard for messages or surprises.” Meanwhile, the “Backside” exhibition at the Musée Antoine Bourdelle in Paris showcased the importance of the back, attracting around 90,000 visitors. The exhibition catalog included a quote from Yohji Yamamoto, who called the back “the focal point of my construction.”
Griffiths suggested that editors and fashion professionals should pay more attention to the back when viewing runway shows. “I would encourage editors to move their heads more,” he said.
As fashion continues to evolve, the back remains an essential element that deserves more recognition. Whether through innovative designs or historical significance, the back has proven to be a powerful and often overlooked aspect of fashion.